Hotel Miramalfi

Amalfi clings to the coast at the mouth of a ravine, its white buildings stacked against cliffs that plunge into the Tyrrhenian Sea. This was once the capital of a maritime republic that rivalled Venice and Genoa, its merchant fleets crossing the Mediterranean from the ninth century until Pisa sacked it in 1137. The town's medieval prosperity left behind the UNESCO-listed Duomo di Sant'Andrea, its Arab-Norman facade climbing a steep flight of steps above the Piazza del Duomo, and a tangle of stone stairways that wind between lemon groves and centuries-old houses.

The British upper classes arrived in the Edwardian era, and Amalfi has been a resort town ever since. The harbour fills with fishing boats and yachts, their sails bright against the dark water. In the lanes behind the waterfront, paper-makers still practise techniques introduced by Arab traders a millennium ago. The air smells of salt, citrus, and sun-warmed stone.

Salerno Costa d'Amalfi Airport lies 27 kilometres to the east; Naples International Airport is 38 kilometres northwest. The coastal road curves above the sea in hairpin turns, each bend revealing another sheer drop or another village clinging to the rocks.

The hotel's location places you within reach of some of Campania's most compelling dining. Piazzetta Milù, twelve kilometres east and holder of two Michelin stars, is known for the Izzo family's warmth as much as its creative cuisine. Book a table at Torre del Saracino in Marina di Equa, a two-starred contemporary restaurant housed in an old fortified tower just metres from the sea, reached via a series of hairpin bends down from the coast road. On Capri, L'Olivo offers Italian contemporary cooking in Anacapri's quieter reaches, complete with terrace views of the island sunset. Closer to the property, the harbour at Cetara, nine kilometres along the coast, is the heart of the local anchovy trade; arrive early to watch the boats unload their catch.

The Costiera Amalfitana's cultural depth extends far beyond the shoreline. The archaeological sites at Pompei and Herculaneum, sixteen kilometres northwest, preserve the catastrophic moment of Vesuvius's eruption in AD 79. Ravello, perched high above the coast, is a short drive inland: its Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone offer some of the most arresting garden views in southern Italy. Don't miss the waterfalls above Furore, accessible via stone paths that wind through the valley's quiet interior.

July and August bring temperatures near 28°C and bone-dry air, the coast alive with holidaymakers and the scent of jasmine thickening in the heat. The sea is warmest then, a deep turquoise that shifts lighter over sand. September cools to 25°C, the crowds thinning as the light turns golden and softer across the cliffs.

October through February sees frequent rain, the skies grey and the waves rough against the harbour walls. Temperatures drop to 11°C in winter, the mountains disappearing into mist. This is the low season, when the town belongs to locals and the lemon groves drip with rain.

Spring arrives in April, when wildflowers cover the hillsides and temperatures climb to 16°C. May is the ideal month: warm but not oppressive, the water clear, the restaurants unhurried, and the coastal path shaded by wisteria in full bloom.